Grading circulation coins - simplified and clear rules, easy to remember and use. It’s a large text, but IMPORTANT. There are rules I use and demand from people who I swap with. IN COIN COLLECTING GRADING IS ESENTIAL.

  1. A dirty coin is difficult to grade. If the coin is not an excepcional one (in capsule) you can wash it with hot water and a bit of soap - washing dishes detergent. Never use abrasives or aggressive kitchen products , Child soaps are best. Do not brush them – even with soft brushes. Use only your fingers. To dry the coin you can use a soft tissue – but do not wipe it – only touch slightly. You can complete drying with a hairdresser. If you are not an experienced coin collector – if you do anything else – you risk to degrade the coin. Don’t do it.
  2. If the coin has oxidation – keep it untouched
    3. . If you know about conservation techniques – use them only to the cheapest and most popular coins. Only professionals have the devices and chemistry to clean a coin properly. In most cases – THEY DON’T CLEAN THEM. – only preserve.

     

  3. After the coin was washed – look for clear and big damages. A bug is not a damage, but what is a bug...There are no clear rules. If the coin is clearly damaged – do not grade it – it’s a time loose. Throw the coin to the closest trash as fast as possible, and forget it. If you are not sure if the damage is important – always tell the swapper – or buyer, that you have a doubt. Or send him a good foto. Maybe it will be acceptable for the other side of the transaction. There is no grade which includes a damaged coin – even if you grade it GOOD (means coin in a really bad condition) – it excludes damaged coins.
  4. Stain – corrosion. It’s natural for all metals
    5. , except gold. If it is superficial – forming any kind of patine (thin film of noble oxides covering REGULARLY a coin) – its fully acceptable for any advanced collector. Patine – IF IS THIN AND REGULAR(noy partially wiped) – do not undergade a coin. Taking it off can undergrade it. Don’t do it if you’re not sure how to, or if you don’t have the necessary devices like microwave cleaners, electrolisis pools, acid tanks etc. Beware: DEEP STAIN IS unacceptable Many times it’s difficult to recognize the deepness of the corrosion process. Sometimes it can be dangerous for the coin – a coin can have a progressive corrosion process, difficult to stop. Is the only case that fully justifies cleaning a coin (but never with abrasives). In most cases is easy to see the difference between a dangerous – bad – stain , and a superficial – benign – one. Look at the coin – darker or green points placed in the middle of a lighter oxidation fields signals a risk of deep corrosion. If the process is advanced you will look clear incrustations. Use a magnifying glass (magnifier, lupe) to exam any suspicious coin. In many coins the start of a light oxidation process begins with light dots on the mint luster surface. Light dots can be natural, but the coin can lose the good look. DEEP STAIN ALWAYS UNDERGRADE A COIN under VF (to fine, good etc) or even excludes it from collecting.
  5. Look at the worse side of the coin
    6.  . We always grade the worse side – not the better one. If it’s worth it – grade the both sides.
  6. Use a magnifier
    7. . At least 5x. Professionals use 20x magnification.

GRADING TABLE - simplified

Brillant uncirculated

Uncirculated (UNC)

Extremely fine XF

Very fine VF

Fine

Absolutly no sign of use, any bag marks, 100% mint luster. For each 100 coin which leaves a mint only one will be BU. Frecuently less. Mints frecuently sells BU coins in special sets and pack them vacuum.

No signs of regular circulation – ANY. - cceptable small bugs , and even v. light surface oxidation, patine close. The bugs and wear are aceptable – but only if made in transport or bank storage. Very small ones. All details perfectly clear. In most cases mint luster would be preserved. In some weak metal alloys, the preservation of the mint luster can be discussible.

Coin taken off circulation after a very short time. The wear can be seen almost only with a magnifier. Small details (like hair) on the highest points are clear, but can have a noticeable quantity of bugs, even some wear . Most of that coins will have a lot of mint luster preserved.

. A coin VF must have all small details visible – recognizable , but they don’t have to be clear.(is the difference to XF) A light wear is aceptable – but can’t be heavy. The boundary should be the wear on the highest points – the small details . If you can see the contour of the small details – it is probably very fine. If the small details on the higest points disappeared or are close to – is closer to  fine. Is amost indispensable to use (+) and (-) to grade the coin more exactly.

Heavy wear visible..

Look at the medium size details – if you can see heavy wear on them, is probably a Fine (F) coin. This class is useful for quite rare, expensive coins – too expensive at higher grades of conservation. A popular coin at Fine – is junk.

 LOOK AT THE SAMPLE PHOTOS

(I do not list the AU - about uncirculated grade. Is very close to UNC, but with bigger amount of bug marks, mot an XF yet.)
On the sample fotos the XF coin is at a higher level of the grading standard (corresponding to XF+(close to AU)

Important: Polished coins are always junk. The acceptance of light chemical treatment is discussible. In some cases I use lemon juice or coca cola bath to clean a very bad looking VF coin. Never wipe them with any kind of abrasives.
The basic rule in grading is: If you are not sure a coin is VF (or XF, or UNC) be sure it isn't. 

back to my coin swap page